- For such purpose, we created specifically equipped workshops for clients willing to place their individual orders. There our consultant will take care to provide you with the best advice for the right choice of suitable material, and will use its expertise in taking the measures.
- Not all the fabrics are suitable for the manufacturing of a tailor-made suit, and this is why it is extremely important to choose a suitable fabric of natural fibers (wool, silk, cashmere, mohair). Blends of rare and expensive fibers from which are woven incredibly soft and fine fabrics can be found in the company’s catalogs.
- After having selected the suitable fabric, it is crucial to specify the appropriate silhouette in accordance with the individual features and specificity of the fabric.
- Creating the perfect suit starts with the taking of the individual measures of the client, taking into account all the particulars of the figure, meaning: optimum sleeve length, width of waist and shoulders.
- For each tailor-made suit it is necessary to create an individual cut corresponding to the measures taken.
- During the first try-on the client sees for the first time the selected fabric and the shape given to it. An exciting time, because so far the suit existed only in the minds of our consultant and the client.
- When the suit is ready, the client may come for one last try-on and if satisfied with the result, then the job is done.
- In its final form the tailor-made suit must seem like a natural part of the client.
Taking the measures for a jacket
- When taking measures for a suit, the waist is measured waist above the waistband of the pants.
- Taking measures of the length of the sleeves, while in this case it is specific that the arm should be bent at an angle.
- At the discretion of the designer and depending on the individual characteristics of the client’s figure, the length of the jacket should not fall below the hips.
- At the first try-on the client sees for the first time the selected fabric and the shape given to it by applying any adjustments.
- Then, the sleeve is added, thus avoiding any undesirable creases in the jacket, because each element is made by hand in accordance with the figure.
Taking measures for a shirt
- The neck must be measured very precisely, so as to leave enough space for the shirt not to become too narrow due to washing. Then, what follows is the width of the collar itself.
- Taking the chest circumference is almost a sacred ritual for all master tailors. First, the meter is adjusted in below the armpits and then around the chest. Whether the shirt would be waisted or not, will be decided at a later stage, when the pattern is created.
- The next step is taking the measure of the waist. If mesures are taken for a suit, then the measure must be taken above the waistband of the pants.
- The length of the back is an additional measure used to check the chest measures already taken.
- Both sleeves are measured separately, and this is crucial, as most people have arms of different lengths.
- Measurement of the circumference of the wrist, which is important for the proper shape and size of cuffs.
- At the request of the client, his initials may be embroidered by hand on the cuffs.
Features of the Italian traditional make
- When making the shoulder only natural materials are used to achieve maximum anatomic shape of the sleeve curve.
- Vest - internal protection against sweating in the underarms, determining the longevity of the garment. A characteristic that distinguishes the tailor-made garment: a form indicating a higher quality for the convenience of the client.
- Pistol - shaping is done in such a way so that the inner upper pocket of the jacket is sewn along the fabric of the jacket rather than in the lining, as it in most ready-to-wear clothing.
- Hand sewing of the lining using elastic seams ensures freedom of movement to the garment.
- Rail profiles – open buttonhole slots in the sleeve slits which may be unbuttoned, but not all at a time. The slots are always hand-sewn. Placing a different lining to the sleeves (striped of 100% cupro) comes from the boutique models and gives prestige and luxury to the garment.
- Curved chest pocket.
- This is a lining 100% cupro, woven from natural fibers, which gives it extreme softness. Comfort is also due to its thermal regulating features and its ability to "breathe". Used in the manufacture of all top-quality brands of clothing.
- Buttons made from natural materials - usually horn, a genion pearl, ivory or coroso (fruit similar to chestnut, but with greater rigidity).
Traditional Italian make
- A master cutter knows from experience and tradition that the best cutting for an ideal garment is hand cutting.
- The front of the jacket is made with horsehair sewn from natural fibers (horse or camel hair), which gives the jacket a particular softness and above all - comfort. Thus, the garment acquires natural essence that allows it to "breathe" and be felt.
- The garment is modeled using an iron, while this process is repeated many times at each stage of its creation.
- Before being finally sewn to his jacket the sleeves are sewn by hand with basting thread.
- The numerous hand stitches which eliminate the feeling of stiffness of the fabric with its elasticity, create a feeling of a second skin.
- The hand stitch of buttonholes is adopted as a standard in tailor-made suits.
- Buttons are another detail that is sewn by hand and, as tradition requires - at cross.
- Traditional craftsmanship also includes sewing by hand of accessories such as neckties, scarves, bow ties and belts.